Does an Ethernet Cable Slow Down wifi For Others?
Would plugging in an Ethernet cable be slowing down your Wi-Fi? You’re not alone. It’s a common question…

For a run between buildings, trueCABLE Cat6 Direct Burial ($214.99 per 500 ft) is the right cable, shielded F/UTP, solid bare copper, UV-resistant OSP jacket, Fluke tested. For a pre-terminated run you do not want to crimp yourself, GEARit 250 ft outdoor at $67.99 is ready to plug in.
The hard limit is 100 metres (328 ft). Not a guideline, the Ethernet standard’s timing depends on it. At 110 m a link may appear to work and then drop packets unpredictably, which is far worse than not working at all. Beyond 100 m you need a switch in the middle, an Ethernet extender, or fibre.
And if the cable leaves the building, it needs surge protection. A buried run between two structures is a path for lightning-induced surges into equipment at both ends. This is the step people skip and regret.
| Product | Cable | Use | Conductor | Length | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]() | trueCABLE Direct BurialBest overall | Shielded F/UTP | Buried outdoor | 23 AWG copper | 500 ft | $214.99 |
![]() | fast Cat. Direct BurialBest in cold | LLDPE OSP jacket | Buried outdoor | 23 AWG copper | 1000 ft | $238.99 |
![]() | GEARit Outdoor 250 ftBest pre-terminated | Shielded, ends fitted | Buried outdoor | Oxygen-free copper | 250 ft | $67.99 |
![]() | trueCABLE Cat6 RiserBest indoor run | CMR riser | In-wall indoor | 23 AWG copper | 1000 ft | $213.99 |
![]() | AiCat Cat6 RiserBest for PoE runs | UL 444, 100W PoE++ | In-wall indoor | 23 AWG copper | 1000 ft | $194.99 |
![]() | VOIETOLT Outdoor 100 ftBudget pick | LLDPE, ends fitted | Temporary outdoor | CCA, no PoE | 100 ft | $21.99 |
Ethernet’s maximum copper run is 100 metres, 328 feet. That is the total channel: 90 m of permanent cable plus up to 10 m of patch leads at both ends.
It is not a conservative estimate with margin built in for you to exploit. The limit exists because Ethernet’s collision detection and timing were specified around the propagation delay of 100 m of copper. Exceed it and the physics does not fail cleanly, the link often still negotiates, shows a green light, and then drops packets under load. You get a network that works when you test it and misbehaves when you use it, which is the hardest kind of fault to diagnose.
Cat 6 has a second, shorter limit. It carries gigabit to the full 100 m, but 10 Gbps only to about 55 m. If you need 10 Gbps over a long run, you need Cat 6a, which holds 10 Gbps to the full 100 m.
What to do beyond 100 metres:
Put a switch in the middle. The cheapest and most reliable answer. A switch fully regenerates the signal, so each 100 m segment is measured independently, two segments gets you 200 m. It needs power at the midpoint, which is usually the constraint. A PoE-powered switch can solve that if the first segment carries power.
Use fibre. Multi-mode fibre runs 550 m and single-mode runs tens of kilometres. A pair of media converters costs around $50, and fibre has a decisive advantage for building-to-building runs: it is glass, so it carries no electrical current and cannot conduct a lightning surge between structures. For any run between separate buildings, fibre is the technically correct answer.
Ethernet extenders push data over long copper at reduced speed, often 100 Mbps at 300 m or more. Useful for a camera at the end of a driveway where bandwidth is not the point.
Do not use a passive coupler to join two long cables. Coupling 60 m to 60 m does not give you a working 120 m run; it gives you an out-of-spec run plus an extra point of signal loss.
Direct burial jacket, not indoor cable in conduit. Indoor PVC jackets crack under UV and absorb water. Direct burial cable uses polyethylene (PE) or LLDPE, which resists UV, moisture and temperature swings. Some are gel-filled to stop water wicking along the cable if the jacket is ever nicked. Even inside conduit, use outdoor-rated cable, conduit fills with condensation.
Surge protection at both ends. This is the step that gets skipped. A buried copper run between two buildings creates an electrical path between two separate grounding systems. A nearby lightning strike, it does not need to be a direct hit, induces a voltage difference between them, and that surge travels down the cable into the switch at each end. Ethernet surge protectors cost $15 to 30 each. Fit one at each end, grounded properly. The alternative is replacing switches, and occasionally more than switches.
Ground shielded cable at one end only. Shielded outdoor cable needs its shield bonded to ground, but at one end. Ground both ends between two buildings and you create a ground loop, current flows through the shield because the two buildings’ grounds sit at slightly different potentials. That injects noise and, in a surge event, makes things considerably worse.
Bury it properly. Direct burial cable goes 6 to 12 inches deep minimum, deeper where anyone might dig or drive. Lay warning tape a few inches above it. Call your utility locating service before digging, striking a gas or power line is a far bigger problem than a slow network.

For a permanent run between buildings, this is the cable to bury. The combination that matters is shielding plus an outside-plant jacket plus solid bare copper, and getting all three from a manufacturer that Fluke-tests its output.
The F/UTP shielding is the reason to choose this over the unshielded outdoor options. A buried run passes near mains cable, pumps, gate motors and whatever else lives underground on a property. Foil shielding around the four pairs rejects that interference. Remember to bond the shield to ground at one end only.
The OSP (outside plant) jacket is built for sunlight, dirt, snow and standing moisture, and is rated for direct burial without conduit, though conduit is still worth using where you might ever need to pull a replacement.
Electrically it is 23 AWG solid bare copper at 550 MHz, supporting 1 and 5 Gigabit to 328 ft and 10 Gigabit to about 165 ft. Full PoE++ at 100 W across four pairs means you can power a camera or an access point at the far end without a local power supply, which on an outbuilding is often the whole point.
Fluke DSX-8000 tested against ANSI/TIA 568.2-E. For cable going under a lawn you will not dig up again for twenty years, buying the tested one is not where to economise.
Buy it for a permanent buried run between buildings, especially one carrying PoE.

If the cable will be installed or used in genuine cold, the jacket material is the specification that matters, and this is the one that addresses it.
Standard polyethylene jackets stiffen sharply below freezing. Bend a cold PE-jacketed cable during a winter install and the jacket can crack, often invisibly, and then water gets in and the run fails months later. fast Cat. uses LLDPE (linear low-density polyethylene), which stays flexible to minus 20 °C and resists cracking and abrasion better.
That matters in two situations: installing in winter, and ground that freezes and thaws seasonally, which flexes buried cable repeatedly over the years.
It is 23 AWG certified solid bare copper at 550 MHz, supporting PoE++ (4PPoE), and it is both ETL and UL listed with a CMX rating for outdoor use. The rigid slash-proof box is the same one that makes fast Cat.’s indoor cable easy to pull.
It is unshielded UTP, so it lacks the interference rejection of the trueCABLE. For a run across an open field or garden that is fine; for one following a buried mains line, choose the shielded option instead.
At $238.99 for 1000 ft it is actually the cheapest per foot of the bulk outdoor cables here, roughly $0.24/ft against trueCABLE’s $0.43.
Buy it for a cold climate or a winter install, or when you need the best price per foot.

This is the practical choice for one long run when you have no crimping tools, no cable tester, and no wish to acquire either.
It arrives with gold-plated RJ45 connectors already fitted and tested. That removes the two most common ways a self-installed long run fails: a miswired pair, and a bad crimp that works intermittently. For a 250 ft run buried under a lawn, having the terminations done properly at the factory is worth a great deal.
The conductors are shielded foil twisted pairs of oxygen-free copper, genuine copper, not CCA, rated to 10 Gbps and 600 MHz. The jacket is direct burial rated, so it goes straight in a trench without conduit.
The connectors have flexible PVC bubble boots, which protect the locking clip and make the cable easier to unplug. Sensible on a cable that may be disconnected seasonally.
Two things to plan for. First, you have to pull a pre-terminated cable through whatever hole it passes, and an RJ45 plug needs a larger opening than bare cable, which matters if it is going through conduit or a tight wall penetration. Second, 250 ft is 76 m, comfortably inside the 100 m limit but leaving less margin than you might think once patch leads at both ends are counted.
Buy it for one long run with no tools and no crimping, a garage, shed or garden office.

Not every long run is outdoors. A three-storey house, a barn conversion or a warehouse office can easily need 200 ft of cable without ever leaving the building, and for those, outdoor cable is the wrong choice.
Outdoor jackets are not fire-rated for in-wall use. Running direct burial cable inside a wall cavity is a code violation for the same reason CMR is required there: an unrated jacket carries fire and produces dense smoke. This is the cable for indoor long runs.
23 AWG solid bare copper at 550 MHz, CMR riser rated, gigabit to the full 328 ft and 10 Gigabit to about 165 ft. Every box is Fluke DSX-8000 tested against ANSI/TIA 568.2-D.
The 23 AWG gauge is worth noting specifically for long runs. Thicker conductors have lower resistance, which means less attenuation over distance and less voltage drop under PoE. On a 90 m run, the difference between 23 and 24 AWG is the difference between passing and failing certification.
PoE++ up to 100 W across all four pairs, which combined with the thicker conductors makes this the sensible choice when a long indoor run also has to power something at the far end.
Buy it for long runs that stay inside, a tall house, a barn conversion, a warehouse office.

PoE over a long run is where cable quality stops being theoretical, and this is the cable specified for it.
Power delivered over Ethernet drops in voltage along the cable, and the loss is proportional to resistance and length. A camera at 90 m sees noticeably less power than one at 10 m, and on marginal cable it sees too little, producing a device that boots, runs for a while, then reboots. That symptom is almost always cable, and almost never diagnosed as cable.
AiCat is 23 AWG solid bare copper with a PVC cross separator, which keeps the pairs apart for both crosstalk control and heat dissipation. Heat matters here: 100 W of PoE through a bundled run raises temperature, temperature raises resistance, and higher resistance drops more voltage, a loop that gets worse as it goes.
UL 444 listing is a stricter safety certification than the ETL verification most competitors carry, and it is the one worth having when cables inside a wall are carrying real power.
Every box is Fluke DSX-8000 verified, lot-tracked and barcode traceable, and it complies with TIA/EIA 568.2-D, NEMA WC-66, ISO/IEC 11081 and RoHS.
Buy it when a long indoor run must also carry PoE to a camera or access point.

$21.99 for 100 ft of pre-terminated outdoor cable is cheap for a reason, and the reason needs stating plainly: the conductors are copper-clad aluminium, not copper.
That has three consequences. It should not be used for PoE, aluminium’s higher resistance means more heat under load. It is more brittle than copper, so it fails at tight bends and terminations sooner. And it does not meet NEC 800.179, which requires copper conductors in communications cable, so it is not appropriate for a permanent installation you might have inspected.
Where it is a reasonable buy: a temporary or semi-permanent run with no PoE, at a distance where CCA’s higher resistance does not matter much. A cable across a garden to a summer house, out to a workshop for a few months, or to a camping setup. At 100 ft (30 m) you are well inside any distance where the conductor material would degrade a plain data link.
The jacket is genuinely good for the money, LLDPE, UV resistant, water resistant, rated for burial and for extreme temperatures. Twenty cable ties and two dust covers are included, and the ends are factory-fitted with gold-plated plugs.
Think of it as a well-jacketed temporary cable rather than infrastructure. For anything permanent, or anything carrying power, spend the extra on solid copper.
Buy it for a temporary outdoor run with no PoE, not for anything permanent or powered.
100 metres (328 ft) total channel length for Cat 5e, Cat 6 and Cat 6a at gigabit speeds, including patch cables at both ends. Cat 6 carries 10 Gbps only to about 55 m; Cat 6a carries 10 Gbps to the full 100 m. Beyond 100 m you need a switch in the middle, an Ethernet extender, or fibre.
It usually still links, which is the problem. Timing and signal degradation cause packet loss and retransmissions that appear as intermittent slowness rather than a clean failure. A link that shows a green light and drops packets under load is much harder to diagnose than one that simply does not connect.
You can join them, but it does not extend the limit, the 100 m applies to the whole path, and a coupler adds a small extra loss. To go beyond 100 m you need something that regenerates the signal: a switch in the middle, an Ethernet extender, or a fibre link with media converters.
Yes. Indoor PVC jackets crack under UV and absorb water. Use direct burial or outside plant (OSP) rated cable with a polyethylene or LLDPE jacket. Use it even inside conduit, conduit fills with condensation. And use indoor-rated cable for the portion that runs inside walls, because outdoor jackets are not fire-rated.
Not within the 100 m limit, a 5 m and a 95 m Cat 6 run both deliver gigabit. Two things do change with length: 10 Gbps on Cat 6 drops out beyond about 55 m, and PoE voltage drop increases, so a powered device at 90 m receives noticeably less power than one at 10 m.
For any run between separate buildings, yes. A buried copper cable links two independent grounding systems, and a nearby lightning strike induces a voltage difference that travels down the cable into equipment at both ends. Ethernet surge protectors cost $15 to 30 each; fit one at each end. Fibre avoids the problem entirely, because glass conducts no current.
For a permanent buried run between buildings, trueCABLE Cat6 Direct Burial at $214.99 is the right cable, shielded, OSP jacketed, PoE++ capable and Fluke tested. In a cold climate, fast Cat.‘s LLDPE jacket at $238.99 for 1000 ft is both tougher and cheaper per foot.
If you want one run done without tools, GEARit’s 250 ft pre-terminated cable at $67.99 removes the crimping entirely. And whatever you bury between two buildings, fit a surge protector at each end, it is the cheapest insurance in networking, and the thing people wish they had done.
Disclosure: Networking Signal is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. We earn a commission on qualifying purchases made through links on this page, at no additional cost to you. Prices shown were accurate at the time of writing and may change. Burial depth, grounding and code requirements vary by jurisdiction, check local rules and call your utility locating service before digging.
2 responses to “6 Best Ethernet Cables for Long Distance in 2026 (100m Limit Explained)”
What is the best flat ethernet cable to use? My PC is about 60 ft away from my router so I was going to run this along the base boards. I do stream and game up to 4k
Hi Sherman Partin
Thanks for asking this query.
For now, you can check this Ercielook Flat Network Ethernet Cable 100 ft High Speed.
In the upcoming days, I will add a separate article on the best flat ethernet cables.